Installation Guide

How to Bend EMT Conduit: Offset, Saddle & 90° Stub-Up Steps

Updated August 2026 Reading time: ~6 mins

Every conduit run eventually meets an obstacle — a floor joist, a duct, another pipe — and going around it cleanly comes down to three bends every electrician needs in their toolkit: the offset, the saddle, and the stub-up. Get the marks wrong and the conduit either misses its termination point or binds against the obstruction.

All three bends rely on the same underlying math: a multiplier that sets the distance between bend marks, and a shrink or deduction factor that corrects for the fact that bent conduit travels a shorter straight-line distance than unbent conduit. This guide walks through how to mark and bend each type.

Step-by-Step: Bending a 2-Point Offset

  1. Measure the rise. This is the vertical height the conduit needs to move to clear the obstacle, measured in inches.
  2. Choose a bend angle. 45° is the standard field choice. Shallower angles (10°, 22.5°, 30°) work better on long runs; steeper angles (60°) suit tight spaces but add more stress to the conduit.
  3. Calculate the distance between bends. Multiply the rise by the angle's distance multiplier — for 45° that multiplier is 1.414.
  4. Calculate shrink and subtract it from your run. Multiply the rise by the angle's shrink factor per inch of rise — for 45° that's 3/8" (0.375") per inch — and shorten your overall measured run by that amount.
  5. Mark both points and bend. Bend each mark to the same angle in opposite directions so the two bends cancel out and the conduit runs parallel to its original path, offset by the rise.

Get Your Mark Distances Instantly

Enter your rise and angle to get exact mark distances and shrink for offsets, saddles, and stub-ups.

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Bend Angle Multipliers & Shrink Factors

Angle Distance Multiplier Shrink per Inch of Rise
10° 6.00 1/16" (0.063")
22.5° 2.613 3/16" (0.188")
30° 2.000 1/4" (0.250")
45° 1.414 3/8" (0.375")
60° 1.155 7/16" (0.430")

Worked Example: A 45° Offset Around a 6" Beam

Say you need to route EMT past a 6-inch beam. Using the 45° values from the table above:

Distance between bends = 6" × 1.414 = 8.49"
Shrink = 6" × 0.375" = 2.25"

You'd mark your two bend points 8.49 inches apart and bend each to 45° in opposite directions. Because the diagonal path is shorter than a straight run, you also need to add roughly 2.25 inches back into your overall conduit length measurement (or extend your cut mark by that amount) so the far end still lands where it needs to.

Saddles and Stub-Ups: What Changes

A 3-point saddle is used when conduit needs to cross over a pipe or obstacle and return to the same plane on both sides. It uses three bends instead of two: two 22.5° outer bends and one 45° center bend. Mark the center of the obstruction first, then measure out to each side for the outer marks, bend the outer marks 22.5° toward the obstruction, and bend the center mark 45° away from it.

A 90° stub-up uses a different correction entirely: the bender deduction (or take-up). Because the bend forms an arc inside the bender shoe, you subtract a fixed deduction value — which depends on conduit size and type — from your desired stub length to know where to place the mark. For 3/4" EMT the deduction is 1/2"; for 1" EMT it's 5/8". A 12-inch stub in 3/4" EMT is marked at 12" − 1/2" = 11-1/2" from the end.

Common Bending Mistakes

  • Forgetting to account for shrink: Skipping the shrink correction on an offset leaves the conduit short of its termination point.
  • Using the wrong bender deduction: Deduction values differ by conduit size and type — using the 3/4" EMT deduction on 1" EMT throws off every stub-up mark.
  • Mismatched bend angles on an offset: Both bends in a 2-point offset must be the same angle, or the conduit won't run parallel after the bend.
  • Marking from the wrong end: Stub-up marks are measured from the end of the conduit that will be the finished stub — mixing this up produces a stub of the wrong length.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is conduit shrink and why does it matter?

Conduit shrink is the amount a conduit run shortens when you make an offset bend, because the conduit now travels a diagonal path instead of a straight one. For a 45° offset with a 6-inch rise, shrink is approximately 2.25 inches (6 × 0.375). Always subtract shrink from your measured run so the conduit ends up the correct length.

What angle should I use for a standard offset?

45° is the standard field offset for most obstacles because it balances a manageable bend radius with reasonable spacing. Shallower angles like 22.5° or 30° are used for long, gentle offsets, while 60° is reserved for tight spaces since it stresses the conduit more.

How do you make a 3-point saddle bend?

A 3-point saddle involves three bends: two 22.5° outer bends and one 45° center bend. Mark the center of the obstruction on the conduit, measure out to each side to mark the outer bends, bend 22.5° at each outer mark bowing toward the obstruction, then bend 45° at the center bowing away. The result is a smooth saddle over the obstacle.

How do I mark a 90° stub-up bend?

Subtract the bender's deduction (take-up) value for your conduit size from the desired stub length to find the mark point. For example, to make a 12-inch stub with 3/4" EMT (deduction 1/2"), mark the conduit at 12" minus 1/2" = 11-1/2" from the end.

What are the bend multipliers for common offset angles?

Distance between bends equals rise multiplied by the angle's multiplier: 10° = 6.0, 22.5° = 2.613, 30° = 2.0, 45° = 1.414, and 60° = 1.155. Larger angles produce shorter spacing between bends but stress the conduit more.

Conclusion

Offsets, saddles, and stub-ups all come down to the same discipline: measure accurately, pick the right multiplier or deduction for your bend, and mark before you bend. Once the multipliers for 45° offsets and your conduit size's stub-up deduction are second nature, you can mark most field bends without reaching for a reference card.

Disclaimer: While our articles and tools are designed to align with the National Electrical Code, always check with local building inspectors and licensed electrical contractors before initiating physical installations.